DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME : Rotteneggs.com text files and message bases are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT undertake any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site.We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
(36 votes) Published: May 12, 2007 6:08 a.m. Viewed 15 times
Well as some of you may know, Tamiya is a company that makes thing from R/C jets to train sets. One of the products they make it R/C tanks. These are no ordinary shitty tanks, they kick ass. You buy a kit and build it all your self. You can also buy a battle system so you can battle another tanks yousing infrared lights.
The first thing I did was to prime and paint the metal parts.
Before I started working on painting the plastic parts, I removed Tamiya’s numbers that they had on the hull.
The plastic parts were painted. Once they are removed from the sprues to use them they can be touched up as needed.
I was anxious to glue something together so I put together some of the crates and gas cans.
some very small parts
Starting to assemble the suspension.
yet again small parts
More of the suspension done.
little detailing parts
Getting ready to do the final assembly of the suspension. There are a lot of small parts in this step, so I counted out all the parts I would need and divided them into piles for easy identification.
grr the smal parts
Aftermarket ball bearings were used instead of the stock bushings.
The metal cone spring seats and metal cone springs getting ready for assembly.
One of the cone springs put together.
Because people have said that the stock motors are a little too fast and don’t have good low end torque, I replaced them with a set of Longcans from Hobby-Lobby.com
FK5202 LONG CAN 400 MOTOR
I had to remove the pinion off the stock motors and put it on the new motors.
To get it off I had to get a very small (1/16") punch. I held the stock motors with a wire stripper, since it lets the shaft go but does not let the pinion through
I then used the punch to gently drive the shaft back out of the pinion.
To install the pinion onto the new motors, I supported the main shaft which runs all the way through the motor on a vise. I could then safely tap the new pinion on without hurting anything.
The shaft is shown here with the yellow arrow pointing to it.
The motor wires were removed from the stock motors and soldered onto the new motors. The motors were installed into the gearboxes and the gearboxes were installed into the chassis.
The gear boxes were installed and the front cover screwed in place.
The suspension arms that I built earlier are attached to the chassis.
One of the things that I did differently as to reverse half to the cone springs from what the instructions said.
The tracks were put onto the chassis
On the rear of the turret is the place where the antenna would have been in real life. Tamiya would have you put a metal wire with your antenna wire wrapped around it coming off the rear of the tank... this would not look nice!
I purchased a Deans one piece antenna. I stripped most of the plastic covering off the antenna and put a 90° bend near the small circuit board.
I then started to drill out the antenna hole in the turret... and melted the plastic. DOH!!
Make sure that when you do these types of things that you keep the parts cool!
I was able to cut it down and save it.
Here you can see the Deans antenna coming through the top of the turret. I was really glad that I had not removed any more of the plastic covering or my plan would not have worked!
The front end mostly put together.
I started painting some of the implements and let them dry while I worked on other things.
The front end mostly done
The rest of the turret is wired and the battle system is installed.
This is where I was at at that point.
Here it is after the dirtying up.
Sandbags, road wheels, and track links are added to the front of the tank.
The rear deck gets some gas cans, extra shells, K-Rations, an oil drum and potato sack. These were then "tied down" with rope.
I was not too worried that the items on the rear deck are not so dirty like the rest of the tank, as items like this would come and go in real life and may not match.
thanks and please rate fairly. these take a long time to build and these arent even all of the pictures. i am in the midst of doing a Tiger 1. i will make an egg of that wen its done.
May 12, 2007 10:50 am - Although its a c/p its really cool. Ill give him a 1* for wasting my time so... sneakily... But otherwise if the site he c/ped had a rater id give it a 5*